Vogue High Perfumery Story
Roses and Peonies and Ouds, Oh My—How Vogue Fell in Love with Cartier High Perfumery.
These memorable Cartier fragrances, whether layered or worn on their own, open up a world of scented self-expression. Keep scrolling to read the entire article below or visit Vogue.com for the full experience.
Scent is inextricably tied to memory—both in making and remembering. It can remind us of a moment, perhaps of the time we fell in love, a trip that changed our life, or simply an unforgettable evening of pure joy. Cartier refers to their high perfumery as “invisible jewelry.” Just like precious adornments, fragrance carries an added allure, something abstract that makes it irresistible and intimate. And like jewelry, we carry fragrances—both the ornate glass bottles and the scents themselves—with us always, from births to weddings, across oceans and through decades. Sometimes a single scent, like an exquisite solitaire, is enough. Other times, we layer or combine them, even changing through the day as suits our mood. The possibilities are endless. So to help you begin your own journey of discovery, we’ve explored the maison’s haute parfumerie collections through some of our favorite individual scents, from radiant florals to the liquid gold of parfumerie, and a Warholian take on rose.
Rose, Reimagined
For all the romance it’s inspired throughout the ages, the rose sometimes gets a bad reputation. For her part, Cartier’s in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent sometimes finds the flower’s typical symbolism lacking, likening it to “an emblem of femininity withered before it blooms.” She spent years exploring the rose for Cartier, hoping to release the bloom from its archetypal, submissive nature.
The result? Three utterly singular interpretations of the flower for three of the maison’s haute parfumerie collections. Each scent is at once as familiar as it is revelatory. Trying each is like smelling a rose for the very first time. The pinnacle of her creations is L’Heure Osée, a play on the rose that banishes pastel pinks and babydoll dresses. Instead, this daring flower is bursting to life in a carnal bloom on the skin. It is the rose for those who swore they’d never wear a rose; the ultimate challenge to the stereotype. Part of Les Heures de Parfum collection, which finds inspiration in the emotional hours, or moments, in all our lives, it typifies the sensory sophistication that comes from carefully selected ingredients combined with authentic artistry.
Oud & Pink is similarly unexpected. Part of Les Heures Voyageuses collection, which explores notions of distant lands, travel, cultures, and traditions, it’s a blend that one can only liken to a rose dressed up in a tuxedo. The softer elements of rose petals are captivated by the masculine qualities of the woody, spicy Oud. Ideal for any gender (but perhaps especially women who are fond of men’s fragrances), this scent is for those who make an undeniable first impression.
And for those who love the rose as it is—its elegance, its simplicity, its essence—Mathilde Laurent created Pure Rose. Part of the self-explanatory Les Epures de Parfum collection, there are no frills, no tricks, and no added drama here. Like all members of Les Epures de Parfum, there’s a floral purity that astounds. It’s the rose in its truest form: authentic, bare, and always inviting.
Truest Nature
Most perfumes contain floral notes, but when a fragrance is called floral, it usually means that something other than Mother Nature is present—sweeter, powdery notes that convey the feeling of flowers instead of their actual scent.
That’s why Mathilde Laurent aimed to capture the truest essence of the flower with Pur Magnolia. With no fuss and no frills, this magnolia is true to nature—a vibrant, olfactory work of art that embraces realism. One spritz transports you beneath a magnolia tree in the springtime, with a warm breeze caressing your skin.
There’s a similar fresh, sunwashed radiance to L’Heure Diaphane—a scent meant to evoke the optimism and intimacy of the morning light. Rose, peony, and lychee sparkle and dance together, while a silver thread of amber wood grounds them in a sensual embrace.
Either one makes an exquisite choice for the minimalist, the eternal optimist, or whoever emits the most sunshine into the room.
Gilded Voyage
One of the most intoxicating notes in the perfume industry is the unmistakable Oud. Sometimes called “liquid gold,” Oud imbues any fragrance with a woodsy, smoky, and resinous quality that is—when done correctly—absolutely head-turning. The right Oud often has admirers and passersby asking in awe, “What is that?”
Mathilde Laurent interpreted the magical capabilities of Oud with Les Heures Voyageuses, an ambitious collection for Cartier that unlocks various facets of this most prized ingredient, itself an ode to the very birth place of perfumery. In fact, the range incorporated record levels of raw materials—so much so that each juice is almost considered a perfume extract, the highest concentration of fragrance you can buy.
Each member of the collection pairs Oud with another ingredient, thereby exploring its versatility and all its facets. The hero of the collection is undeniably Oud & Santal—a mélange of Oud and sandalwood that tames the wilder qualities of Oud into a silky plum syrup. Undeniably woodsy, it bursts onto the skin before mellowing out into a seductive adornment.
True to its name, the “liquid gold” fragrances are all adorned with a gilded moucharabieh motif, inspired by a Cartier ruby brooch from 1901, and the cap features a gold tie inspired by the iconic Entrelacée ring. The bottle is as much a treasure as what’s inside.