GQ.com Feature: Santos de Cartier
The High-Flying Origin Story of the Santos de Cartier Watch
Watches come in many shapes and sizes, but the best of them have two things in common: a fascinating backstory and an iconic design. As the jeweler of record to monarchs and movie stars for more than a century, the house of Cartier has plenty of both to its credit, but among the best is the tale of the Santos de Cartier. With its square case, a bezel secured by eight visible screws, and an array of highly accurate quartz and mechanical Swiss movements, the Santos de Cartier is a case study of how grail watches are born, not made.
In 1904, Louis Cartier was inspired to create a watch for his pioneering Brazilian aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Known as much for his dandy personal style as for designing and flying experimental aircraft, he needed a watch that, unlike the conventional pocket watches of the era, he could look at without taking his hands off the controls. The Santos de Cartier, with its eye-catching square case inspired by the symmetrical geometry of Paris’s streets, was the perfect tool for the job. Specifically designed to be worn on the wrist, it remains as historically important as it is stylish over a hundred years later, and its classic design makes it beloved by bold individuals who push the boundaries of creativity.
Cartier is known for its clean lines, geometric shapes, and exquisite details, and the decadent selection of dials, finishes, and materials in the latest Santos de Cartier collection takes this design language to new heights. As one of the standouts in the 2023 Santos de Cartier lineup, this watch features an automatic winding Swiss movement and a smoky gradient (dégradé in Cartier’s parlance) dial in a sumptuous shade of green. With an adjustable steel bracelet and a matching green alligator strap (easily interchangeable thanks to Cartier’s “QuickSwitch” system), it’s a versatile and sophisticated alternative to the ubiquitous steel sports watch.
As a jeweler, Cartier puts precious metals and gemstones to artful use throughout all of its collections. This new Santos-Dumont, with its satin-finished gray sunray dial, “guilloché”-engraving, and two-tone steel and yellow gold case accented with a sapphire-capped beaded steel crown, is no exception. Thanks to a high-autonomy Swiss quartz movement, the Santos-Dumont cuts a svelte profile at just 7.3 mm thick, making it the perfect size to peek out from under a sleeve.
The classic look of the Santos-Dumont model hasn’t changed all that much over the last century, but Cartier’s mastery of fine details makes pieces like the new full-gold Santos-Dumont shine all the brighter. From the engraved sunray dial to the semi-matte blue alligator strap to the signature engraved case back, the closer you look, the more stunning detail you’re sure to discover. Along with its fascinating origin story, this is what makes the Santos de Cartier one of the 21st-century’s most coveted watches.
Shop the Santos collection and more iconic watches on Cartier.com.